CRETE - Sat 29 March - Wed 16 April 2003

Photo Gallery

General Remarks:

Crete as a cycling destination: The island of Crete is over 150 miles long from west to east and about 60 miles from north to south. Along its width there are three ranges of mountains which reach heights of over 6000 ft. The mountains are snow-covered until June and inaccessible to bicycles. There are, however, many satisfactory roads crossing the ranges. The scenery and views are breathtaking. While most of the land is given over to agriculture - olives, grapes, vegetables in the plains and goat and sheep rearing - the mountains are bleak, remote and scrub-covered. Cretans are extremely hospitable and their generosity is overwhelming. The island is big enough to offer a wide range of interesting and varied cycling ranging from lengthy mountain climbs to leisurely cycling along flat roads flanked by olive groves.

Travel: Olympic Airlines insisted that bikes should be boxed on the outward and return journey. Local bike shops in Britain were able to supply suitable boxes. At the airport in Chaniá we were able (with some persuasion) to store the empty boxes in the left luggage office for the return journey. Chaniá airport is some distance outside the town and there is no hotel at the airport itself. There is, however, an excellent taxi service costing 15€ per journey between the airport and Chaniá.

Roads: There is a fast road in a good state of repair flanked by a cycle track all along the northern coast of the island. The quality of roads varies elsewhere but was generally good. Unfortunately land slides and slippage meant that some roads had dangerous spots where boulders and earth has collapsed onto the road, dangerous cracks had marred the surface or the road had disappeared down the mountain side. The most insidious problem was the occasional deep hole in the road, hard to see on approach especially in rain and potentially lethal. On roads outside the towns we were often greeted with friendly hoots from passing motorists. In the towns, where road-markings are often unclear or nonexistent, defensive cycling is essential. The road belongs to the motorist, so it would seem, and to no one else!

Spares & Repairs: We saw one cycle shop in Kisamos but nowhere else. Cyclists visiting the island would be advised therefore to bring tools and basic parts such as inner tubes, brake blocks, gear and brake cables. This is not to say that cycle shops do not exist, but I would anticipate some time spent in tracking one down. In general we saw very few, if any, local cyclists.

Maps & Books: I used a Leadercom 1:125,000 map of Crete. (Baltetsiou 50-52, 106 81 Athens Tel: +30 10 3838852 fax: +30 10 3838854 email: leadercom@ath.forthnet.gr) Contour lines and detailed information about heights were not shown, though shading gave a rough impression of the terrain. The map was clear, compact and easy to read, place names being given in Greek and English, but it was frustratingly lacking in detail at times. A 1:80,000 map is supposed to be available, but I didn’t find one in any of the bookshops in the major towns I visited. The Rough Guide to Crete was invaluable. The information was up-to-date and accurate and it enabled us to check in advance whether accommodation was available in some of the smaller places along our route as well as making helpful recommendations about places to stay. Unless return trips to Crete are planned, there is no need to buy the book. Borrow it from the public library for the duration of the tour.

Accommodation: All towns of any size have at least one place to stay and in most towns we were spoiled for choice. Room prices are authorised by the Greek licensing authority and tariffs vary according to quality and the season: high (summer), medium (late spring, May onwards) and low (winter and early spring). In practice we found that hotel owners were quite prepared to offer rooms at a lower price than the advertised one, probably because we were a fairly large group and in a buyers’ market at that time of the year. Crete was still fairly empty of tourists in early Spring. On average the cost was about 20€/per room/night, roughly equivalent to £13.50. In many hotels rooms were equipped with a cooker and fridge and all had an en suite toilet and shower. It was a mistake to try to arrange accommodation through a tourist office, as we did in Chaniá shortly after we arrived. The tourist office seemed to have few hotels on its books and the hotel we were offered turned out to be the most expensive of the trip, costing 40€/room/per night for quite modest accommodation. The best idea, we discovered, was to simply to wander around the streets, compare prices and haggle.

Climate: The average temperature for April on Crete is recorded to be 17ºC. We were surprised at how cold and changeable the weather was during our stay, but we were told that Crete was experiencing its coldest Spring for 50 years. In fact the weather in Britain was better than in Crete. There were cold winds, cloud, little sun and poor visibility on most days. We had two days of heavy rain. Altogether there were only two days of bright sunshine and high temperatures. On our departure the temperature at Athens airport was average at 17ºC, so it’s difficult to know just how exceptional the weather conditions really were. In any case we were prevented from cycling only once and the coolish conditions we had over all were in fact almost ideal for cycling and certainly better than the sweltering heat of summer (40ºC on some days!).

Clothing: Evenings in April were chilly and a pair of comfortable long trousers and a warm pullover or fleece were essential. During the day cycling shorts were ideal, though a cycling jacket and occasionally a rain jacket were needed. One change of clothes would have been enough, since washing and drying were no problem. “Paper pants”, available from Boots or Mothercare, are to be highly recommended. They are very compact and washable three times before they begin to disintegrate. They also dry in about 20 minutes and are one of the best aids to touring cyclists I have yet discovered.

The Food: Crete is reputed to have the healthiest of all Mediterranean diets. Meat does not feature greatly in the diet and steak is far less common than seafood and the meat of smaller animals such as chickens and pigs. Salads are delicious and generously laced with herbs and olive oil. A great variety of pulses and herbs are sold in grocery shops. Water, whether from the tap or from bottles, is excellent. Good bottled Cretan wine is available, but locally produced wines seem to be more popular, providing an interesting range of bouquets and tastes according to local conditions. Raki, distilled from local wines, is offered everywhere as a complement to meals free of charge. Bread from wholemeal or refined flour is delicious and has an excellent homemade flavour and texture. A good evening meal including a starter and main course came on average to about 10€.

Shops: Shops are open from about 8.30 in the morning till about 2.00pm and then from 6.00pm till about 10.00pm. A vast range of goods can be purchased. The major towns (Chaniá, Rethymno, Irakleon) have the widest range, but Spili had the best selection of cloth and leather goods I saw. It is also worth shopping around before buying. Even items like books are priced differently from shop to shop. Prices are relative. Never take the displayed price as the final price. Cretans are used to haggling. Supermarkets are small and predictably lack the charm of small groceries and baker shops. I was surprised to see the range of pulses and herbs on sale. Fruit is of good quality and oranges appear to grow all year round, with blossom and fruit on the trees at the same time.

Route Summary:

Day 1 Depart Heathrow Airport ca. 10.00pm via Olympic Airlines. Cost of return flight £270. Travel insurance (first direct) £22.  
2 Arr. Chaniá ca. 6.30am. +2hrs adjustment to GMT. Overnight @ Hotel Ifigenia Tel: 2821-094357 10 miles
3 West along old coast road to Kastelli (Kisamos). Hotel Bikakis. 23€/Room. WEB: http://www.familybikakis.gr  43 miles
4 South over western hills to Paleohora. Overnight: backpackers’ hotel 27 miles
5 Stayed in Paleohora. Did circular route west via Sklavapoula 25 miles
6 Northeast steeply onto to Lefka range to Omalos. Hotel: “The Six Guards” Tel: 0821-67180/67124 26€/room 35 miles
7 North again and follow main road to Chaniá. Hotel: Mme Bassia 20€/Room. WEB: http://www.mmebassia.gr 34 miles
8 Chaniá - Rethymno. Hotel: Irini. 35€/Room 3 beds 41 miles
9 Bus trip to Irakleon/ Knossos. Hotel: Irini. 35€/Room 3 beds   
10 Southeast steeply from Rethymno to Zaros onto Idi range. Hotel: Kameros 20€/Room Web: <click> 62 miles
11 Rest Day  
12 Zaros - Mires - Pirgos - Martha - Embaros - Panargia - Kastelli. Hotel: 18€/Room 62 miles
13 Zaros - Lasithi Plateau via Aski/Avdou/Kéra/Lagou  47 miles
14 Zaros - Agia Galini via Arhangelos/Arkalohori/Partira/ Tefeli/Asimi/Mires/Timbaki. Hotel Minos. 30€/Room. Tel: 0832-91292 Fax: 2832 091292 58 miles
15 Agia Galini - Spili. Hotel 20€/Room 16 miles
16 Spili - Hora Sfakion. Hotel Samaria. 20€/Room. Tel: 0825-92261/91071 Fax: 0825-09070 47 miles
17 Hora Sfakion - Chaniá. Hotel: Mme Bassia 20€/Room. WEB: http://www.mmebassia.gr  47 miles
18 Rest Day. Took bikes to airport 10 miles
19 Chania - Airport. Dep 7.00am for Athens. Dep Athens 9.15 arr. Heathrow 11.15am. -2hrs adjustment. Heathrow - Holmer Green (High Wycomb) 25 miles
 
TOTAL DISTANCE: 589miles

Detailed Description

Sat 29 Mar

Mike and Christine Hocking from Cambourne arrived punctually at 12.00 to pick up me and my unboxed bike. Having picked up Grace Dovell in South Brent we made are way to Heathrow at a steady driving speed, arriving about 7.00pm. Mick and Cathy Cole were already waiting for us and we set about the task of boxing our bikes for the plane journey. Saddles and seat posts had to be removed, handle bars turned and pedals removed. Our early arrival at the airport gave us plenty of time to complete our preparations. We boarded at about 10.00pm.

Sun 30 Mar

On arrival in Athens we not only had to compensate for the extra hour of daylight in Britain but also for a two-hour time difference between London and Athens. The fight time was 3½ hours to Athens and a further 45 minutes from Athens to Chaniá. The addition of three ours to our watches meant that for practical purposes we arrived at our destination just before dawn. By the time we had unboxed and reassembled our bikes, it was eight o’clock and broad daylight. Having found a safe location for the empty boxes, which would be need for the return journey, we set off for Chaniá.

As we descended the long hill into Chaniá, we got our first view of the town beneath us (see opp.). After a quick breakfast in a sea-front café, we set off to find the centre of the town and a hotel. Mick and I shared a room in the Hotel Ifigenia. The floors had been freshly painted in shiny brown paint in anticipation of the summer tourists. We took our evening meal in the “Tamam” restaurant, which was probably the best one of the tour. The restaurant had been a Turkish bath under the Ottomans. The main dining area was located in what used to be the cold plunge bath. To the sound of traditional Cretan music, we enjoyed excellent service and food. 10 miles

Mon 31 Mar

We met at 9.00am, set off towards the old town and then made our way to the old road leading west. The stretch of road to Kissamos was probably the least imposing of the whole trip, lined as it was with rather unattractive

ramshackle towns largely devoted to the summer tourist trade. In Kolimbari we branched right on a minor road on to the Onihas peninsula and started a long steady climb to the top via Afrata, Astratigas and Rodopos, where the road petered out into an even steeper dirt track. I had hoped to get as far as Menies Bay, but the day was drawing out and I was the only one with a mountain bike. The landscape was bleak and no sooner had we reached the top of one

hill or rounded a bend than others stretched tantalising before us, drawing us on. Grace, who found the heat and steep ascent taxing, eventually came to a halt. The remainder of the group went on a short way and rejoined Grace some 30 minutes after, having reached the top of the climb. We made our way back down the track quickly. Christine had the first puncture of the trip. We followed the spine of the hill down to the old road and made for Kissamos, picking up a young Italian cyclist on the way. He had been living in Kissamos for about a year and half and had his own business making musical instruments. He found life in Italy too hectic and preferred the relative peace of Crete. The western part of the island, he said, was picturesque and popular with walkers. He showed us a back way into Kissamos. The rooms he rented cost abut £160 per month. He left us on entering Kissamos, first having showed a suitable hotel to stay in. 43 miles

Tue 1 Apr

Left Kissamos ca. 9.30am and retraced East to junction of old road and freeway. Branched right to Kaloudiana wh. R again to Topolia and top of gorge. The weather, which had not been promising on our departure, rapidly deteriorated and heavy rain set in with strong cold winds after reaching Liana. Bearing L through Aligi, Psariana and Dris, we reached the main road, turned R and started the second descent into Paleohora. By this time we we cold and truly soaked, but we were able to warm up at out first experience of a roadside café in or near Vlithias. It was hard to imagine anyone making much of a living in such a place. It had some groceries, but not much. There was a metal stove in the centre of the room and the furnishings were very basic. However, in the state we were in we were only too glad to dry off and warm up. Cups of Nescafewere soon served with glasses of water and followed by raki, which we were not expecting. We soon came to realise that this sort of hospitality was traditional on Crete. The weather improved a little by the time we entered Paleohora and within minutes we we being offered help with accommodation by a Dutchman, who had set up restaurant in the town with his wife. We were directed to a backpackers’ hostel, not far from the tom centre. The rooms, as always, were basic but comfortable and there was a communal kitchen, where we were able to make breakfast the next day. My room was at the front, facing the street and contained three beds. The shower was outside the room, but hot water was available immediately. For some strange reason there was no water, however, the next morning. Gradually I began to get accostomed to disposing of toilet paper in bins provided next to the amenities. I never fully understood the need for disposing of paper in this way, but I was told later that the the sewerage conduits were built horizontally and thus caused many blockages - not surprising considering the popularity of Crete with tourists in the summer. Grace accompanied me to a store to buy a fleece in the early evening. Even I could see that bright canary yellow was not exactly my colour and I settled for a pullover instead. Originally priced at 39€, it went for 20€. Prices in Crete are approximate, and any hesitation is usually greeted with an accommodating reduction in price. Wish we could do that with some of the ridiculous prices in this country. That evening we ate in a pizzeria - initially with some reservations, because it was not exactly typical or traditional. But to our surprise we were served up with the most enormous, delicious and economical meal of the whole holiday. Probably the best pizzas anywhere, ever. 27 miles

Wed 2 Apr

We couldn’t understand the weather. Wasn’t Crete supposed to be bathed in scorching sunshine - even in Spring? Yet, we woke to a cold, windy and rainy morning.

Our Dutch friend told us that Crete was experiencing its worst Spring in living memory. The fig trees had not even begun to shoot and the previous Monday they had had snow on the coast. We wondered if the weather would ever improve. Rather than spend a day wandering round Paleohora in the rain, we followed the advice of the son of the hostel owner and did a circular trip to the west of

Paleohora. This was arguably the most scenic route of our trip. The road wound its way between steep mountain valleys with super views along most of the route. Turning right off the main road just outside Paleohora we climbed up to Voutas, where we stopped in another typical café for refreshment. I asked for tea (tsai), having got fed up with the amounts of coffee I had been drinking till then. I was actually served with a herb tea made from a local weed called “diktamos”, a plant unique to Crete. It was highly aromatic with a bitter taste, but the flavour improved with the addition of sugar (sákari). In Sklavapoula we stopped again for refreshment in a similar café, chatted as best we could with the very corpulent and cheerful owner and then started our long, twisting descent to the main road. The road had been newly refurbished, probably with the help of EC funds, though in places there was considerable weather damage. At one point two dogs, chained up either side of the road, ran out, leaving a narrow strip for us to cycle through. This soon became a familiar site, though the reason for chaining dogs up in remote places like this never became clear to me. On the whole they seemed fairly sane in spite of their treatment. An empty oil drum was usually provided as shelter, and the two we saw had been recently fed, judging by the chewed bone at the roadside. On entering Paleohora we were greeted again by our Dutch friend, who was opening his restaurant that evening and invited us to sample his cuisine. The emphasis seemed to be on Thai cooking. The meal was good and a little more expensive than we expected. I committed a faux pas by mistaking the chicken I had ordered for small knuckles of pork. Later I read that Cretans eat small free range animals. This would explain the bones, which I suppose added a flavour absent from the water and antibiotic filled chunks from the farm produced chickens sold in Britain. 25 miles

Thu 3 Apr

The day started fine. Although the distance was short, the climb to Omalos was unremitting. We had lunch in a large but empty modern-looking restaurant on the northern side of Temenia. The food was excellent and the feta cheese was the best I tasted on the whole journey. We left Temenia just after 2.00pm and after a short climb caught

sight of snow-covered mountains on the long descent through Maza, Rodovani and Skafi. We stopped in Eponohori for coffee in perpetration for the final 12 miles to Omalos. When we finished it was beginning to rain

heavily, but we were offered a most welcome lift in an open truck (cost 30€)and completed the journey to Omalos on four wheels rather than two. Grace and Kathy sat in the cab in front while the rest of us took refuge against the

blinding rain and wind under a large sheet of polythene. I think that we would have been at serious risk of exposure if we had had to complete the last section by bike. As it was, we arrived in fairly good shape at “The Six Guards” hotel and a hot shower soon put us in good spirits. We were not the only guests at the hotel. There was a party of about six French botanists, led by Pascal Jarige, a mountain guide from the Chamonix area. He told me that he led several botanical trips per year various parts of the world. Quite a nice way to earn a living.
35 miles

Fri 4 Apr

After the previous day’s torrential rain we were glad to awake to brilliant sunshine. Our first object, after a copious breakfast of croissants and coffee, was a trip to the Samaria Gorge, some three miles away. We regretted

taking our saddle bags with us, since we had to pass the hotel on the way back and the road to the Samaria Gorge climbed steadily upwards. We met another group of British botanists - this time a whole coach-load of them. After enjoying the sunshine and a short rest, we made our way back to the hotel for elevenses and then started the trek back towards Chania. The route took via Laki and Fournes.

As we descended the temperature rose and just before Fournes we began entering orange groves.

We ate our usual lunch of bread, Philadelphia cheese, tomato and cumber on the steps of the cathedral. Just before we left we left two old people arrived to open the church for a service and we were able to investigate the interior. Greek Orthodox churches are laid out differently from those we know. Around the walls are finely worked wooden seats, presumably for lay or church dignitaries. The altar is hidden from view behind a screen. The services are broadcast via loudspeakers outside and sound surprisingly Islamic in character. We detoured left into Alikianos where we had coffee again and Mick and Mike changed some money. Wanting to keep off the main road we took the first right to Mournies and followed a winding but flat route almost to Chania. We debated whether to head for Souda, just a little further east of Chania, but the allure of the Tamam Restaurant proved too strong and we eventually decided on Chania. Following the advice of the Rough Guide we made for Mme Bassia’s Hotel, where we received a friendly welcome. The rooms were spotless if somewhat Spartan. But this was generally the Cretan style. 34 miles

Sat 5 Apr

We followed the road to Souda, where Mick stopped to repair a puncture. Rejoining the main road for a short while, we made our way along the coast via Kalami and Kalives, where I stopped in a fascinating grocery store to stock up with a few things for lunch. The range of herbs and pulses on sale was staggering. I rejoined the others and together we headed for a beach café for a quick coffee. We continued in the direction of Amirada, stopping just before the town for lunch. Passing through Gavalohori and Vamos, we made our way back to the main road and headed at some speed towards Rethymno, which we

reached in the late afternoon. Rethymno was one of the most attractive resorts we visited, full of narrow streets and boutiques selling anything from sponges to lace. We had some difficulty finding a hotel, but we were directed by an old lady to the Hotel Irinia - a modest place where for the first time we shared three beds to a room. It was comfortable, however, and relatively cheap. In the evening we were lured by a smooth talking restaurateur into a “high class” restaurant, where we probably paid more than anywhere else for the equivalent of “cordon bleu” cooking, We weren’t convinced at the end that the result justified all the palaver serving and preparing the meal. Grace had spotted an Irish Guinness pub on the opposite side of the road and we bundled in to experience a less typical aspect of Crete and to have a night cap. 41 miles

Sun 6 Apr

Knossos was a “must”, but rather than cycle to Irakleon and then to Knossos, a distance of about 60 miles, we decided to catch the bus. After a breakfast of Cretan pies filled with cheese and spinach and other goodies, we marched off to the bus station. Contrary to my expectation we had no difficulty in getting tickets on a Sunday and had an enjoyable 40-mile bus ride to Irakleon. There we changed buses and soon reached Knossos, only 8kms away. My recollections of Knossos were rather romantic, I fear. This second visit was disappointing. We thought we would need at least two hours there, but the site was much smaller than I remembered. There was no entry fee since part of the site were undergoing refurbishment and not accessible to the public. I wandered off behind a very noisy group of student to take some photographs on my own. When I was busy looking for a good angle, I found

myself surrounded by students - some of them not too friendly because of Britain’s involvement with the war in Iraq. Some of the students made their feelings about Blair quite clear and fortunately nothing larger than a few small pebbles hit me and . If I told them I agreed, I doubt they would have believed me. It was rather an unsettling experience. I discovered that they were from a high school somewhere in Thessalonika. Later that afternoon we bumped into them again, noisy as ever, in the museum in Irakleon, where one of the keepers was obviously telling them to behave themselves and be quiet. The poor teachers seemed defenseless against their general indifference and poor behaviour. I did not envy them.

In the evening we once again followed the advice of the Rough Guide to Crete and ate at Kyria Maria’s. It was a small restaurant with bird cages handing from the ceiling. The walls were covered in grateful postcards and pictures of family and friends. Maria was businesslike and soon served us a splendid meal of typical fare at a very reasonable price. I paid just over 3€ for moussaka.

Mon 7 Apr

The next day we worked our way southeast from Rethymno through Metohi and Armeni to the top of an

eight-mile climb. Turning left off the main road we passes through Kare and Seli to Mirthios. The secondary road we were following passed along the foot of the Psiloritis Range. Descending abruptly from Mirthios, broad views of

the plain below opened out and before us the opening to a mountain gorge. This was among the most scenic routes we followed. We stopped at a restaurant at the junction of the Voleones turnoff for coffee and then started a long

ascent to Apostoli. The map indicated a lake not far from the main road and I took a detour via Vistagi, and Platania to find it, rejoining the rest of the group in a café in Nithavris. I didn’t pass the lake as I hoped but caught site

of it miles below where it was marked on the map. The detour brought my mileage for the day up to 62 miles. Although we had hoped to get as far as Panasos, we stopped short at Zaros. This mountain village was charming. We found excellent accommodation at the Kameros Hotel, where I had a chance to exercise my German with the husband of the manageress. He was teaching at the local primary school, having lived in Germany for many years. He was rather disgruntled with the pay, though he didn’t say how much it was. His parents, he said, were still in Germany. The town also had a grammar school which was renowned throughout Greece for its German teaching. The hospitality at the hotel was amazing. At breakfast the next day we were served a breakfast for seven and were treated to a variety of Cretan pastries as well as herb tea and coffee. It was the local primary school teacher who also introduced to to Vivi’s restaurant, which he said served a very good range of traditional Cretan dishes. Perhaps this was the culinary pinnacle of our trip. In quite simple surroundings, to the sound of traditional Cretan music, we were treated to an array of tantalising dishes, the most unusual of which for our pallets was whole octopus in its juice serve with rice. Christine barely saved herself from falling off her chair when it was suddenly placed in front of here, looking like a large, pink spider. It made its way in my direction and it was quite delicious. For hospitality and genuine authenticity this restaurant is a must:

Vivi Kalitsaki
“Vegéra”
Rakadiko-Paradosiakoi Kritikoi Mezedes
Tel: 08940 31730 * Zaros

62 miles

Tue 8 Apr

We woke to the sound of gushing water - rain in torrents. There was no point in battling on in that weather. Mick and Cath went to Miros to change money. Grace, Christine and

Mike did a tour on foot around Zaros, visiting a nearby monastery. For me this was a low patch, perhaps the result of the exertions of the previous day. In the morning and early part of the afternoon I stayed wrapped in blankets in my room, reading a German translation of Joseph Kessel’s novel, “Les Cavaliers”. A good read - probably the best of his many novels. The weather improved somewhat in the afternoon and I explored the town with Cath and Mick, who had returned from their trip to Mires. The evening was spent again at Vivi’s restaurant. The meal was occasionally interrupted by the sound of loud fireworks outside. We never understood the reason for this. We all thought of the current, lamentable events in Iraq, which throughout our tour received wide publicity on Greek television. Captions in English provided by Sky News gave us some vague notion of the suffering there and a lingering sense of guilt about being British in a country vehemently opposed to the War in Iraq.

Wed 9 Apr

Brilliant sunshine. We set off after another copious breakfast and soon started the long descent into Mires.

Below us was a huge plain planted with vines, olives and vegetables. While stocking up for food in Mires, Grace’s fully loaded bike fell over on her leg causing a long fairly deep gash in the calf of her leg. Mick used his paramedical skills to patch this up, but it was several days before she was able to remove the bandage. We set off again east on a flattish road, passing through Agi Deka. Mick’s gear cable was badly frayed and ceased to function just before Stoli. In repairing it he managed to cut the other functioning cable and I was fortunately at hand to supply a replacement. We rejoined the others some twenty minutes later in a café just outside Stoli. A man, probably much the same age as we were, was sitting at the next table and began a conversation with us in English. In spite of his modest appearance the content of his conversation and the quality of his English - apparently he had never been to England - were most impressive. The monoglot English seem to regard anyone with a working knowledge of a foreign language as unusual, if not weird. Here, however, it was no big deal. We found that many people from supermarket cashiers to taxi drivers had at least a workable knowledge of English, and they had not all ended up as modern language teachers in local secondary schools. I suppose if the cultural rewards of knowing another language are not sufficient motivation in themselves, tourism is a strong incentive to acquire a few extra languages and thus gain an edge on the competition. In Asimi we branched off south through Horokos to Pirgos

and then after lunch started a long trek to Martha, where Mick certainly looked as if he had had enough for the day. As it happened there were no lodgings in Martha and we had to make for Kastelli, some 20 kms away, via Embaros and Panargia. I misread the map shortly before Katelli and ended up making an unnecessary detour off with Mike and Christine. Mick was already in Kastelli looking for lodgings when we arrived. Mick, who seemed to have a knack with hotel owners, beat the price down. After settling in, we found a rather unhopeful-looking café on the main square but we were served once again a fabulous meal consisting of omelet, salad and various side dishes.
62 miles

Thu 10 Apr

Another hot day. Had our luck with the weather finally changed? Grace, at some point, had mentioned the Lisithi Plateau and this became an idée fixe with me. I was determined to get there. After scrutinising the map, I suggested taking a short cut along a track through the hills. There was no opposition to the idea and it was generally agreed that we would turn back if the going got too tough. The outward route we took continued upwards

from the hotel we were staying in to Litos, where we explained that we were looking for Karo Metochi. We were greeted with puzzled expressions and advised to follow the road round via Aski rather than Kastamonitsa. We sort of got the idea that the path we were looking for was impassable, but the message was not unequivocal. We decided to press on Kastaminitsa where we met a primary school teacher emerging from a bakery with about four or five pupils. He knew where we wanted to go and expressed surprise that we intended to go there by bike. Anyway, he put us on the right road and just outside Tihos we found an upward-leading path disappearing into the mountains. Initially the going was easy. We picked up two French walkers and started off together. After about 400 metres we discovered that the path was covered in rocks. Our French companions strode off and I tried to navigate the

obstruction with my mountain bike. From higher up the French couple called down that there were many other landslides along the path and we decided to abandon our original plan. Mick was for a quiet day, enjoying the sun and improved temperatures and drinking coffee in the nearest café. My mind was still set on the Lisithi Plateau and I worked out an alternative route which I could follow on my own. I set off and covered quite some distance, most of it downhill, only to discover that makeshift fences had been put up across the path. For what possible reason I wondered. Dogs or other animals? I turned back towards Litos and then struck right on a path sign-posted Aski, from where I could hit a tarmacked road leading to Lisithi. At first I encountered the two French walkers, this time in a car. They too had been forced to abandon the walk. At places there was no path at all. It had slipped down the mountain side forming a treacherous scree slope. Having said good-bye to them, I found the rest of our group peacefully having lunch on the grass verge overlooking the valley. Still the day was too good to waste and after lunch I set off for the Lisithi Plateau and got there just before 5.00 pm after an arduous eight-mile climb from Avdou to Lagou. Most of the way I pushed. But who was looking? It took me the best part of 2½ hours to get to the top and only 30 minutes for the descent. I was worried that this excursion might get me back to Kastelli too late to eat out with the others; but the views descending in a chill wind from Litos were magical, the plain below now being swathed atmospherically in mist and barely lit by the fading evening light. When I got back at 7.30pm, all doors to rooms were locked, so without changing I headed straight for Kastelli to look for the rest of the party, but to no avail. On returning to the hotel I asked the owner if she had a spare key to get into my room. It was while I was showering that Mike came back to look for me and we then headed back to town. We tried out a different restaurant: the Trida . Again - an excellent meal.
47 miles

Fri 11 Apr

Zaros - Agia Galini via Arhangelos/Arkalohori/Partira/ Tefeli/Asimi/Mires/Timbaki. Hotel Minos. 30€/Room. Tel: 0832-91292 Fax: 2832 091292
58 miles

Sat 12 APR

Agia Galini - Spili. Hotel 20€/Room
16 miles

Sun 13 Apr

Spili - Hora Sfakion. Hotel Samaria. 20€/Room. Tel: 0825-92261/91071 Fax: 0825-09070
47 miles

Mon 14 Apr

Hora Sfakion - Chaniá. Hotel: Mme Bassia 20€/Room. WEB: http://www.mmebassia.gr
47 miles

Tue 15 Apr

Rest Day. Took bikes to airport
10 miles

Wed 16 Apr

Chania - Airport. Dep 7.00am for Athens. Dep Athens 9.15 arr. Heathrow 11.15am. -2hrs adjustment. Heathrow - Holmer Green (High Wycomb)
25 miles

TOTAL DISTANCE: 589miles