As the CTC tours for my distance only went to France, I fancied some change this summer and scanned my German brochures. Masuren appealed to me, a guided tour with bikes available.

Warsaw
Masuren is in the west of Poland; a moraine formed the countryside after the ice age. It is hilly with over 3000 lakes all sizes, some of them connected by canals.

One of the 3000 Polish lakes
This part used to belong to Ostpreußen, but was settled by Poles from their eastern borders after the last war.The group assembled in Warsaw, Swiss Austrian, German and me.
After a sight seeing tour in Warsaw, we travelled by coach about 4 hours into the heart of Masuren. We were dropped off in a car park, where we choose our bikes, a selection of 8 hub gear bikes with back pedal brake and 21 gear bikes. It was about 10 miles to the hotel, where the mechanic waited to iron out some problems.
In the first 3 hotels we stayed two nights each and in the last one night. They all were in the middle of nowhere, next to lakes and with enormous grounds. Our luggage was transported on.
Our guide, a Polish student was an endless source of knowledge, history, politics, religion, social problems, transport ect.We visited a museum of country life, a Russian orthodox church and a nunnery of the “Altglaübigen”, apparently they split up from the Russian Orthodox Church in the middle ages.

Typical tiled over for cooking and heating

“Old Believers’” Monastery
We saw how they made ceramic tiles for their traditional corner oven. We had a guided walk through Ketrzyn with the pastor of the protestant church.
We cycled through woods, large cornfields with cornflowers and poppies, nature reserves and heath land and storks everywhere.

Funny -we saw more storks than babies!
We had a 2-hour kayak trip on the river Krutinia and went on a boat from Sztynert to Gizcko, which went through 3 lakes.

Cycling leader demonstrating kayaking
We saw ruins and still standing castles of the Deutschritter. They were formed at the crusades, but conquered Masuren in the 13th century, were they built castles and towns.

“Deutschritterorden” Castle
We admired enormous churches and visited “Heilige Linden” a pilgrim’s church .

Heilige Lindenkirche with moving figures on the organ
Here we listens to an organ concert. The church was founded by the Jesuits and contains an organ with 12 moving figures, reminding me a bit of a street-organ, e.g. the archangel Gabriel bows to the Virgin Mary.
We had a guided walk around the “Wolfschanze” Hitler’s bunker for the eastern front. Here happened the attempt on his life by Fürst von Staufenberg, alas unsuccessful.
Four-course dinner was the norm and the food was surprisingly varied.
Sounds ideal ? Well it would have been if it were not for the cycling. Not many roads are tarmac ked, lots are sand roads with very loose sand, slipping and sliding.

Most roads off the beaten track were just sand
I came off on the second and they made me very nervous. Or there were the cobbled roads with enormous round cobbles, high in the middle and sloping towards the edge with loose sand again. Most of the ladies hated them; the men took them as challenge.With all those lakes, there were a lot of biting insects and we creamed ourselves endlessly, they still managed to sting.The guide tried to teach us some Polish, but I am afraid not very successful, it is such a strange language.
All in all a very interesting holiday, but not for the timid.
